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Mk1 Build Thread

Mk1 Build Thread

6-Feul injection and brake lines part2
It has been slow with my new project but is moving forward :evil:
I've removed induction kit and I'm about to removed the carb.






























The carb was removed.






























Removed carb intake manifold and replaced it with the ADY intake manifold.
















































































































I cut my old fuel lines






























I then disconnected the rubber fuel lines which come from the tank






























I then levered out the old lines with a big screwdriver. Luckly there are spare plastic clips on either side (that I can use) of the fuel lines because the clips are old, brittle and just crumbled.






























I cut the vertical part of the fuel lines off to make removal more easy.






























My old fuel lines are finaly out!






























My old filler pipe.






























I cut (I won't be re-using it) the hose where the filler pipe connects to the tank






























The view through my petrol cap. That "stuff" you see around hole (where the filler pipe goes) is an old sticky residue from a black plastic ring that was stuck on the circumference of the filler pipe mouth. Needless to say that I cleaned it off.






























Car is up on jack stands for easy access. Make sure you place the jack stands in the right place as shown in the pics.




















































































I removed inner wheel arch guard.






























The new breather pipe (helps when filling tank) is connected to the new filler pipe.






























My old tank removed along with some petrol.






























I put heat shield from carb tank onto fi tank. This stops the tank from getting heated by the exhaust.






























I disconnect and bleed rubber brake lines to be able to drop axle. Be careful not to get any of it on your paintwork or skin.






























There is no need to disconnect hand-brake. I just undid the steel clamps that hold the cable brake lines onto the axle on each side which allowed the cable brake lines more room to flex while dropping the axle and swapping tanks






























new tank going in... more pics to follow. Make sure you have connected all the pipes correctly before this step. It is not fun to keep removing the tank because you forgot to connect a pipe!






























I got the back seat out, to connect my new tank's 1) fuel gauge sender into my car's original 2) wiring harness. There is a 3)hole with a rubber grommet under the carpet (facing the front seats 3) where I ran my fuel pump's (+) and (-) wiring along the left hand side of the car's interior (under the carpet) to the 4 pin relay in the engine bay (through the main hole with the grommet in the firewall).






























Rubber pipe is connected between filler pipe and tank. Needless to say: make sure all the hose clamps are tight.






























The pump must be in this configuration because the pump is gravity feed and "pushes" the petrol into circulation. I attached the pump to the metal brake line with a hose clamp (the pump is not heavy) because I couldn't source the the vw clamp and mounting for it (to separate parts). VW didn't have the clamp for me.































The tank breather pipe that originates in the top corner of the tank connects to this "plastic valve" which makes that "clicking" sound when your tank is about to overflow. There is a pipe which leaves the "plastic valve" and connects to another breather pipe which is much thinner and ends with a black trumpet-shaped hole (where the excess fuel will exit).






























This is the hole in the inner wheel arch where all the breather pipes converge (behind the plastic inner wheel arch guard).






























Plastic inner wheel arch guard screwed back into place (exposed pipes were moved behind the guard).
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